Turn A 2€ Rusty Knife Into High-End Japanese Chef's Knife
- Published on: Friday, June 21, 2019
- I found this big knife at a local flea market in a bucket of "everything 2€" miscellaneous items. I bought it with the intent of lightly restoring it but after a close inspection I thought I was better off doing something more interesting with it since the construction was pretty bad, with un-even grinds, terrible pins and poor materials. After removing the rust I could also tell it has pretty much no historical value since it has no marking at all. So here we go! In this video I go through the entire process of turning it into a better looking (and better performing of course) chef's knife.The design is pretty close to a kiritsuke, but it's much bigger than most measuring 43cm (17inch) overall with 30cm (12inch) blade 6.5cm (2.6inch) wide and 2.5mm (0.1inch) thick.I tried to develop an hamon on the blade for aesthetic reason but without success, maybe the steel is not prone to show it since the harness is definitely different from spine to edge before and after tempering. Or maybe some other reason, I didn't wanted to spend the time to figure that out anyway. I had also another issue with the heat treatment where the refractory cement expanded and got stuck in the blade holder inside the oven, I had to quench everything... Yeah... That wasn't pretty at all! The handle is made of iroko and ebony wood, with a mild stainless steel guard and some red felt and white paper liners, the process of making the spacers is better described in this video:https://youtu.be/8tIaEAXYv-kIndex of operation and materials:0:27 Remove handle with metal cutting band saw0:52 Remove rust with angle grinder and steel wire wheel disk1:25 Clamp with copper under holes to stop welds1:40 Stick weld the old pin holes to close them2:20 Grind excess weld with angle grinder and grinding disk3:00 Straighten tang with heat and vise3:26 Annealing3:38 Wire wheeling scale off3:48 Trace new blade geometry3:58 Cut most material with metal cutting band saw (steel soft after annealing)4:25 Refining shape and grinding new bevels on 2x72 belt grinder5:25 Wrapping with steel wire to help refractory cement sticking6:00 Refractory cement used to develop hamon (fail)6:20 Hardening6:30 Quench in warm vegetable oil7:00 Removing wire and cleaning blade7:29 Bad tempering. My oven is too small for this blade and home oven out of reach8:00 Final bevel grind8:15 Hand sanding to 400grit sandpaper8:37 Etching in ferric chloride for a dark matt finish (no hamon unfortunately)8:50 Making liners with red felt white paper and resin10:05 Iroko wood10:37 Glueing the handle stack with 5 min epoxy resin11:10 Grind square11:30 Drill tang hole, 10mm in diameter11:50 Mark and center puch guard holes12:00 Drilling with 2.5mm bit12:17 Grinding back side with dremel and thick cut off disk to save some file work12:36 Filing to size13:20 Tang dowel, cut to lenght on band saw13:30 Took to the exact diameter by spinning on a plate with hole drilled with same bit as the tang hole13:54 Splitting the dowel 14:02 Enlarge the slot to match the tang thickness on slack of 2x72 belt grinder14:30 Final glue up with epoxy resin14:53 Grinding handle to shape on 2x72 belt grinder15:20 Hand sanding up to 600 grit15:48 Boiled linseed oil as finish16:08 Sharpening on the slack of the 2x72 with very high grit beltThanks a lot for watching, I hope you liked the video!Suggestions and comments are welcome.Leave a like and share to anyone who might be interested!★Patreon★https://www.patreon.com/blackbeardpro...★Website★http://blackbeardproject.com/★Follow me★Facebook ► https://www.facebook.com/BlackBeardPr...Twitter ► https://twitter.com/BlackBeardProjeInstagram ► https://www.instagram.com/black_beard...
- Source: https://youtu.be/ebKqELkA2DI